Autumn cuts of apple trees

First, the autumn time

From mid-August to mid-October. The trees in the autumn shoots are cut early in the morning and those in the trees are cut in the evening and are usually finished within 20-30 days before the falling leaves.

Second, the purpose of autumn scissors

The saplings and the initial fruiting trees can control the whole plant vigorously, enrich the shoots and shoots, and enhance the ability to resist cold. The use of thistle flower (especially the secondary shoots) can achieve high yields. Large trees are mainly used to improve illumination, rejuvenate internal hemorrhoids, promote coloration, enhance nutrition, ease peripherals, and rely on autumn shoots to increase fruit size.

Third, the autumn cut method

1. Pull branches to ease. In order to ease the tree potential, equalize the shoots and shoots, and increase the internal lighting, the angle of growth of all kinds of shoots should be promptly opened for the small trees with prolonged angles, and the angle of main branches (especially the tip angle) should be pulled to 75. -80, auxiliary feeding branches to more than 90. The specific method is to soften the base angle to reach the standard of pulling the branch before pulling the branch, and then pull the branch to the required position and angle. The degree of branching is not a circle, no bowing, no overturning, no drilling, and the branches become a line. In addition, we must also pay attention to keeping the center upright and strong, that is, righting the center and adjusting the branches.

2. The twig softens. From early August to late September, when the new shoots are approaching their length or have been lignified, they must extend to the lower part of the head and germinate 3-5 current year-old shoots or main branch backs, competing branches, and within the canopy. 1-2 years old unripe prosperous auxiliaries twigs softened. The method is: first hand hold the base of the shoots 7-10 cm, and then from the inside to the outside repeatedly bending (pinch) the branches, not to damage the leaves, so that the damage to the twigs to the branches of the vascular bundle issued a crisp break , and there is a crack on the outside (back) of the shoot. After softening the litchi, the shoots should be in a sagging or horizontal state and bent toward the space. In order to enhance the litchi effect, it is best to perform 2-3 times every 7-10 days to suppress the growth of the apical shoots, promote the formation of short shoots in lateral buds, and lay the foundation for the formation of flower buds in the current year or the following year.

3. Thinning and lightening. From early August to late September, first of all, large trees in the fruit-bearing period with central stems must be freed of large interlamellar branches (ie, secondary branches) that seriously affect the illumination of the inner pole and disturb the structure of the tree, while compressing all the branches on the main side. On the strong branch group, open the side light (commonly known as "open skylight"). Secondly, for the first-fruiting branches and 2-3 year-old saplings, we must eliminate peripheral shoots, competing shoots, overly-developed leg buds, and young shoots sprouting from the back of the cut and kerfs. To supplement the internal light and prevent nutrient consumption. Third, sparse "skirts." It is necessary to reduce the number of low branch groups, enhance "under light", improve the air circulation on the surface, promote the growth of the inner leaves and the lower leaves, and increase the color of the fruits. However, it should be noted that if there is fruit on the branches that need to be removed, the fruit should be temporarily removed and the branches should have enough leaves to be removed after the fruit is picked or when the spring and summer of the following year are cut. When there are too many autumn rains, the inner shoots continue to sprout and prosper.

4. Lightly cut to heart. From early August to mid-to-late September, all but one of the auxiliaries who are not stopped will be cut to pieces or trimmed. The densely planted orchard can also extend its head 25 centimeters per head 25 times, and pick up the heart once every 15 centimeters long, and then pick it up to the semi-lignified place. In this way, tree growth can be suppressed, growth of shoots can be increased, and the amount of tree branches can be increased, and the axillary buds can be enlarged and full, especially the formation of second shoots, and the result can be compact, the growth of tree vigor can be facilitated, and the safety can be improved. Wintering.

5. Take root control. From early September to mid-to-late October, mid-maturing apples are harvested and then deeply ploughed in conjunction with autumn base fertilizer. General requirements in the trunk from 0.8-1 meters, open 40-60 cm deep ditch, cut off the diameter of 2-3 cm thick roots, can play a long control, ease the role of promoting flowers, and can promote the hair root , Increase the number and proportion of medium and short branches to achieve high and stable production for consecutive years. The root orchard should be subject to formula fertilization and potassium fertilizer and organic fertilizer.

6. Branches. From early August to mid-September, for the perennial competitive branches on juvenile trees and the low auxiliary feeding branches on the resulting tree, before the immediate removal, due to the difficulty of opening angles, it is possible to adopt the method of breaking branches and control. Flower, the effect is ideal. The method is: in the inner or upper part of the base of the upright shoot, cut 1/3-2/3 of the diameter with a shear or a saw, pull hard and pull it to the outside and make it half-fold. A small wooden wedge can be added at the fold to fix its angle. The physiological effects of folding are similar to those of girdling and sawing.

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